The perfect white tee(s)
What your body can tell you about finding the right basic (or not) white(ish) tee for you
The lines are already blurring in the non-committal title of this post. Does the basic white tee really exist? Every capsule wardrobe guide will tell you it does, and it’s not hard to find a definitive list on sites like the Strategist or Vogue claiming that they have the answer. These are certainly helpful launching points, but as with all our clothing, if we just start with the clothing, or the trend, or any outside inspo like our favorite fashion bloggers, we’ll likely strike out.
The real key to finding the perfect white tee for you? Get to know your body. Get to know your preferences. If you don’t start with you, you’ll end up with a very confusing wardrobe that looks like a lot of other cool people, but ultimately doesn’t serve you and doesn’t feel good. I always tell people that styling is a very tricky business because you can’t talk about clothes without talking about bodies. I get it, we all have our insecurities and some have true deep down trauma related to our bodies. What I propose is that we gently approach an observance of our lines, angles, and curves with compassion. There is at least one other person in the world besides yourself who thinks you are beautiful. Think of that person, and believe them.
For simplicity and clarity, I am using 5 categories for sorting our t-shirts. They are Dramatic, Natural, Classic, Gamine, and Romantic. These are categories designed by David Kibbe, and his method is known as The Kibbe Method. There are more refined sub-categories, but I think for our purposes here, keeping the categories a bit more general is helpful. I like this method because it is a kind and affirming way to talk about our bodies. The Kibbe method at it’s core is a method of matching what we observe in the lines, angles, and curves of our bodies to clothing that accommodates those shapes. This is not a method designed to contort your body into some outside ideal, but rather facilitates a greater appreciation for our bodies.
If you are someone who has at least one basic white tee, or many, you likely fit into the Dramatic, Natural, or Classic family. If you have been driving yourself batty wondering how on earth to find a white tee that looks good on you, you might fit into the Gamine or Romantic families. This has everything to do with the lines of your body. A basic tee is inherently geometric, and not very curvy. If you have a curvy body (I’m not talking about weight, but shape), then likely t-shirts just haven’t been giving you the desired effect.
There is a 3rd hurdle that we often face with this white tee business, and that is that many people look washed out in bright white. Perhaps a classic fit feels great, but you don’t enjoy wearing white because the color feels off. This is valid, and has to do with the undertone of your skin, which is different than surface coloring of skin. If your skin undertone leans warm, you’ll want to find an off-white, ivory, or even cream colored tee. If your undertone leans cool, an off-white, stone white, or bright white will more likely suit you. This is mostly suited to another day’s discussion, but it’s worth noting. You might nail the style, but still be dissatisfied because the color is off.
Let’s start with Dramatics. A Dramatic body is long and angular. You might be a dramatic if you are over 5’5”, have narrow shoulders, and have an angular face and body structure. You would never describe yourself as curvy and you are not petite. The best tee for a Dramatic will mimic shapes like the triangle or square. A Dramatic tee will be sculptural and crisp, not flowy, shapeless, rounded or flimsy. Fabric choice is important for dramatics. Opt for sturdy fabrics.
Naturals are often also tall, and also fairly angular. Their angularity comes from their width, which is often seen in their shoulders and cheekbones. Naturals have a freshness to them and clothing typically drapes very well on naturals, particularly t-shirts. Naturals are looking for their clothing to mimic the shape of a T. This accommodates a vertical line (long clothing like maxi dresses) and a strong shoulder line. A Natural will look great in the most basic of basic white tees, so long as it’s flowing or boxy and not too fitted. Fitted can work, but it will be best if it has a natural texture to it, or is a made of a thin fabric. Linen tees, and styles with a bit of slouch work great. It’s good to note that one subcategory of Natural looks best with some waist cinching, so if that’s you, don’t be afraid to tuck your slouchy tee.
Classics are very balanced, and shine in basics. Moderation is the name of the game. Classics look anything but boring in a simple outfit, so if this is you, look for a tee without any oversized or itty bitty elements. Your perfect tee is going to be balanced and moderate to match your frame. Fabric should be neither to thick or too flimsy. Avoid funky details unusual sleeve or neck shapes. Square neck shapes can be an exception if you lean more angular, but still classic. And a rounded more open neckline is great if you lean softer and more curvy. But still, you’re always searching for the most classic of options.
Gamines are often petite, but can be up to 5’7” and can either have long limbs or short limbs (depending on your subcategory). Gamines shine in playful, youthful styles. This translates to pieces that have a staccato effect, like broken lines, geometrical shapes, and interesting details like piping and buttons. As you can see, this is where the call for a basic tee gets complicated. If gamines are not simple and moderate, how do you find a tee that won’t look boring? For some gamines, a basic white tee might just be striped. For others, it could be white, but will have details like a ruffled edge or an interesting neckline, like a boatneck or mock neck. Cap sleeves are another good element to explore.
Romantics have a lot of curve and roundness regardless of their weight. They are usually petite in height and have narrow shoulders and rounded cheeks. They have a grown-up and refined beauty to their look. Romantics will also find basic tees too plain and boring, so the elements to look for are small, round shapes. A sweetheart neckline, ruching, and ruffled sleeves are excellent romantic details to look for. Romantics look harmonious with a more open neckline, so a scoop neck is also a great element to look for and it’s best to leave the crew necks and v’s to others. A deep v can work on a fitted silhouette for this type. Texture or details like bows are also great for a romantic. And waist definition is important. So be sure to get a fitted version or give it a half or full tuck into high-rise bottoms.
If you've made it this far, you may be wondering if these guidelines can apply to men, and the answer is absolutely! Admittedly, it’s a little more challenging to think about how a romantic tee would translate into a men’s shirt, but it can be done, and is much more simple than you might realize. With all of men’s fashion, the variabilities are just not as vast. A romantic tee for a man could simply be more fitted and have a more open and rounded neckline as opposed to a classic crew. A rounded hem could also be great, like with this Buck Mason tee. For a gamine man, the magic is in the details: roll the sleeves or add a bandana, and make sure the fit is nice and trim.
I hope this was a fun little dip into thinking about the shapes of clothing and how
they interact with our bodies, and that you got a bit of direction to further inspire your journey with your wardrobe. If you’d like to work with me, or simply have questions, please reach out.
Wishing you good things,
MDS
P.S. Y'all had some great input on Instagram about your favorite white tees, which included Reformation (particularly suited to gamines and romantics I think), Uniqlo, Everlane, Son of a Tailor for men (wow, taking customization to the next level!). A favorite of mine is Free People (for naturals and romantics especially).
Super interesting! I tend to wear ivory or beige t-shirts since white just doesn’t work. I love the everlane over-sized crew, and I love the other recommendations for the “natural” type!